Getting better as you get older just has everything to do with joy and nothing to do with desire. It's just joy in the water. I enjoy watching Dora go through bummers and go through silent delirium, delirium of ecstasy, when he's on that one wave in a month, where's he just performing and his joy is that of that 20 year old at Malibu. His joy is there.
Derek Hynd from aramis17 on Vimeo.
