low impact surf tours
sharing insight and knowledge of to how to get uncrowded surf on the edge of surf tourism
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mark cunningham
I mean, you look at the world news and most people are so struggling in the world, for us to have the luxury and vanity to go dabble in the ocean is just unbelievable. I can’t describe the sense of gratitude I have at this point in my life for just my health, my fitness, all my friends.
I’ve had my share of waves. It’s like the buffet line: I just keep going back for more. So it’s real easy for me to pass on a session or let someone else have a wave, because I always know there’s gonna be more. Sometimes I don’t even need waves. I just need to go swimming in the ocean. And I wish that was something more people would get hip to. You don’t need fins, you don’t even need a board, just strip down to your trunks or wetsuit and dive into a shorebreak or go swim in the ocean, look at it from a different vantage point, as opposed to jockeying to the prime spot in the lineup and putting out the vibe like, “Next one is mine.” The ride itself is only a tiny fraction of it all. The actual act of riding a wave is like 5% of our experience. Getting to the beach park or the bluff and checking it out, going down the trail, walking across the beach, you know, sort of posting up, doing your stretches, putting on your sunscreen, paddling out. Without all that we’d be missing something very special. I dig the whole scene at the beach and in the shoreline just diving under waves and talking to friends or looking back at the beach and your lineups and landmarks of the neighborhood back there. It’s just the whole dance.
1st Quote Derek Hynd
Getting better as you get older just has everything to do with joy and nothing to do with desire. It's just joy in the water. I enjoy watching Dora go through bummers and go through silent delirium, delirium of ecstasy, when he's on that one wave in a month, where's he just performing and his joy is that of that 20 year old at Malibu. His joy is there.
Getting better as you get older just has everything to do with joy and nothing to do with desire. It's just joy in the water. I enjoy watching Dora go through bummers and go through silent delirium, delirium of ecstasy, when he's on that one wave in a month, where's he just performing and his joy is that of that 20 year old at Malibu. His joy is there.
Derek Hynd from aramis17 on Vimeo.
